Guides
New one- or two-family home
Full building permit plus trade permits, staged inspections, and a certificate of occupancy.
Almost always. Temporary power, well/septic, and driveway / ROW permits are often separate.
Related permits
Building · Electrical · Plumbing · Mechanical · Roofing · Driveway / ROW
Documents
- Signed application and owner / contractor affidavits
- Site plan or survey with setbacks, trees, and utilities
- Architectural, structural, and energy drawings
- Product approvals for roof, openings, and envelope (especially coastal / HVHZ)
- Septic or sewer availability; well or water tap
Steps
prepare · Owner or GC
Confirm which office issues the permit
Use the job address, not the mailing city. Inside city limits is usually the city building department. Outside is often the county. If two offices look possible, call both with the address and ask who issues the building permit for that property.
prepare · Owner or designer
Decide whether the work is permitted
Most structural, MEP, envelope, and change-of-use work needs a permit. Cosmetic finishes usually do not. When in doubt, ask the building department in writing and keep the answer with the job file.
prepare · GC / trades
Line up the people who can pull the permit
Many offices only issue to a licensed contractor, a registered designer, or a homeowner who signs an owner-builder affidavit. Check the state license before you apply.
prepare · Owner / civil
Clear zoning, flood, and utilities first
Setbacks, lot coverage, flood zone, and water/sewer letters stop more new-home files than framing details. Get them before you pay for a full drawing set.
apply · Applicant
Assemble the submittal
Application, site plan or survey, construction drawings, product approvals, energy forms, and owner / contractor affidavits. Incomplete packages are the most common reason a file sits.
apply · Applicant
File in the official portal
Create the account on the department website, pay the intake fee, and keep the record number. Do not start work. A complete application is not a permit.
review · Designer + applicant
Plan review and corrections
Building, zoning, fire, flood, and trade reviewers may each comment. Answer every comment in writing, mark the revised sheets, and resubmit the full corrected set the office asked for.
review · Applicant
Issuance and job-site posting
Pay remaining fees, print or download the approved set, and post the permit card where the inspector can see it. The stamped set is the only legal job copy.
build · GC
Build only what the last ticket allows
Foundation before slab cover. Framing before MEP concealment. Envelope and insulation before drywall. Do not bury work the inspector has not seen.
closeout · GC
Final inspections
Trade finals usually precede the building final. Do not conceal failed work. Bring the approved set, prior tickets, and special-inspection reports.
closeout · Owner + GC
Close the file
Ask the department to final the permit. Collect the certificate of occupancy, certificate of completion, or finaled card. Keep as-builts, product approvals, and elevation certificates with the property.
Inspections
- Footing / foundation — Forms and steel in, before concrete
- Slab / underground — Plumbing under slab tested, vapor barrier in
- Framing / shear — Shell up, before concealment
- MEP rough-in — All rough complete, walls open
- Insulation / envelope — Before drywall
- Finals + CO — Ready to occupy
Watchouts
- Starting before issuance is the fastest way to a stop-work order.
- Temporary power is usually its own ticket.
- Impact windows, roof products, and HVHZ approvals are not interchangeable with inland listings.